In the annals of early motoring adventures, few tales capture the spirit of exploration and the challenges of early 20th-century roads as vividly as the account of Mr. Somerset Playne's thousand-mile journey through New Zealand. Driving a 10-12 h.p. De Dion two-seater car, a vehicle already seasoned by travels in England, South Africa, and Australia, Mr. Playne embarked on a remarkable round trip from Wellington to Auckland via New Plymouth. This article delves into the details of this pioneering journey, highlighting the triumphs, tribulations, and the breathtaking scenery that defined this automotive adventure.
The Journey Begins: Wellington to Hastings
The adventure commenced under less than ideal conditions. As Mr. Playne departed Wellington one evening, a heavy downpour accompanied him. Despite the inclement weather, he successfully reached Paekakariki that night. However, the following morning brought no respite from the rain, and the already challenging roads deteriorated further. To compound matters, a tire blowout occurred, adding an unwelcome delay to the journey. Nevertheless, Mr. Playne pressed on, eventually reaching Woodville, a milestone of just over 100 miles from Wellington, by evening.
The next day proved to be a test of endurance and resourcefulness, as a series of tire troubles plagued the De Dion. The intended destination of Hastings remained out of reach, and a forced stop was necessary at Te Ante, a mere fifteen miles short of the goal. Undeterred, Mr. Playne initiated an early start the following day, only to be thwarted by the complete failure of his last spare tire cover after a mere ten miles. Stranded, he walked two miles to the brick works at Paki-Paki to send a telephone message requesting fresh tire covers.
Salvation arrived in the form of two motorcyclist friends from the district, who not only delivered the much-needed tire covers but also brought a welcome breakfast of sandwiches and beer. This act of kindness underscores the camaraderie and shared understanding of the challenges faced by early motorists. It's worth noting that the problematic tire covers had already endured over a year of use in various climates. With the repairs completed, Mr. Playne resumed his journey, pausing for lunch in Hastings before continuing to Napier. The day concluded at Te Pokui, marking the first rainless day of the trip.
Navigating the North Island's Rugged Interior: Napier to Rotorua
The fifth day dawned with an early start and the promise of spectacular scenery. The road wound through hills of imposing grandeur, with gradients that tested the capabilities of even the most robust vehicles. The infamous Tarawera Hill posed a significant obstacle, with teams of horses stationed to assist motorists whose cars faltered on the steep ascent. However, the little De Dion, despite the wet and sticky conditions, managed to conquer the hill without external assistance. It was noted that a fixed charge of £3 was levied for each car towed up this formidable incline.
The descent from Tarawera Hill to the Tarawera Hotel was equally challenging. The road featured sharp, right-angle corners, and the clay surface made skidding a constant danger. A moment's misjudgment could result in a precipitous drop of approximately 1000 feet. Despite these perils, the engineering feat of constructing such a road up the mountainside was undeniably impressive. Experienced motorists considered an average speed of 12 miles per hour between Napier and Rotorua to be a commendable achievement on these roads.
Upon reaching the Tarawera Hotel, Mr. Playne enjoyed a hot bath before indulging in a well-deserved lunch. The hotel proprietor expressed surprise that such a small car had managed to navigate the treacherous roads. The journey continued with several more steep climbs, and the steady rain made the Rangitaiki Hotel a welcome sight, despite its reportedly poor and expensive accommodations. It was humorously noted that the hotel proprietor operated with two separate tariffs, one for tourists and one for locals, with tourists apparently paying a premium for the privilege.
Taupo and the Road to Rotorua
Leaving behind the pricey Rangitaiki Hotel after a frugal breakfast, Mr. Playne reached the Terraces Hotel in Taupo after a short drive across the pumice plains. This hotel was praised for its excellent management and the manager's dedication to the comfort of his guests. Mr. Playne took the opportunity to explore the local sights, including the Crow's Nest Rapids and geysers, and spent a day fishing, catching ten trout with an average weight of over four pounds each.
The ninth day saw Mr. Playne heading towards Rotorua. Petrol was readily available at the hotels in the region, though the cost varied significantly due to transportation expenses. A garage with a repair expert was also available in Taupo. The journey to Rotorua included a worthwhile detour to visit the magnificent falls located a short distance from the main road. Waiotapu was reached in time for lunch, and after exploring the sulphur fields, the journey continued.
The road from Waiotapu to Rotorua was described as being in a deplorable condition, marred by mounds of earth and mud-holes. Road repairs, where attempted, appeared to have been executed without any logical planning, with earth, rocks, and clay haphazardly dumped onto the road surface. The Geyser Hotel in Rotorua, offering a comfortable stay and a delightful hot bath, was reached around 6 o'clock. The hotel's chef was particularly renowned for their pastry-making skills.
The Muddy Gauntlet to Auckland
After spending four days exploring Rotorua's attractions, Mr. Playne set course for Cambridge. A mere fifteen miles from Rotorua, the forest and the mud presented a formidable challenge. During wet weather, the state of this track was almost beyond description. It was here that the plucky De Dion finally succumbed, becoming stuck fast after pushing a significant amount of solid clay in front of the gearbox and sinking axle-deep into the mire. It took a full half-hour to free the car from the mud, a feat accomplished without any external assistance.
From this point to Cambridge, the road improved somewhat, though it remained "bumpy." The fourteen-mile stretch from Cambridge to Hamilton was covered in 30 minutes, providing a welcome change. Lunch was followed by more bumpy roads until Mercer was reached at 5.30 p.m. Despite the day's challenges, the car had traversed over 150 miles, passing through stunning scenery along the riverbank.
The next morning, Mr. Playne continued towards Auckland, but the roads remained subpar even on the city's outskirts. A few days of rest in Auckland were greatly appreciated before the car was shipped by the Northern S.S. Company to New Plymouth.
The Return Journey: New Plymouth to Wellington
After arriving in New Plymouth, the journey resumed in the direction of Wanganui, which was reached the same evening. The Foster's Hotel provided a tranquil setting for Mr. Playne to reflect on the breathtaking views of Mount Egmont and the surrounding countryside. Rising early, he arrived in Palmerston North in time for breakfast and reached Wellington in time for dinner.
A Lasting Impression
Mr. Playne's account underscores the profound enjoyment derived from such a journey, even amidst challenges and obstacles. The memories of the magnificent scenery would undoubtedly linger for years to come. To summarize, this thousand-mile trip showcased some of the world's most enchanting and diverse landscapes, and the small De Dion car, after the initial tire troubles, performed admirably. The car only became stuck once during the entire trip, a testament to its capabilities considering the inclement weather and the poor condition of the roads in the Rotorua and Auckland regions. This journey stands as a remarkable record of early motoring adventures and the enduring allure of the open road in New Zealand.